When you think of Israel, what comes to mind? The Holy Land? Judaism? Jesus? The temple? The Old Testament? God’s chosen people? Yes, to all of this. But as my team and I are living in Nazareth, we are experiencing a different, unique side of Israel where these historical truths are not as you may envision them to be.
Nazareth and the surrounding areas are demographically unlike any other place in Israel. It is the largest city and capital of the the northern district of the country and known as the “Arab capital of Israel”. While the breakdown of religion throughout the country is 75% Jewish, 17% Muslim, 4% other, 2% Christian, and 2% Druze. Nazareth is 70% Muslim. Because of war in 1948, many Palestinian Muslim refugees fled into Israel. At war’s end, most returned home except for those whose home areas had been so destroyed that returning home seemed too difficult. Today, 70% of the people in this region are Arab Muslims with Arabic being the most widely spoken language as opposed to Hebrew, which you most likely think of when you think of Israel. This has made our team’s experience here different than the average person’s who comes to this land.
In our two weeks so far, we’ve met so many different people. Many who we’ve connected with are Arab Christians. And we’ve learned that because of prejudice in this country, this identification can make life difficult. They’re Arab… but they’re not Muslim. They live in Israel… but they’re not Jewish. They live in Nazareth… but they don’t practice Islam. They speak Arabic… but when they travel outside of their city, they must speak Hebrew. They’re Arab… but they’re not veiled or covered in their dress. They’re uncovered… but they’re not Jewish. Get it? They don’t really “fit” anywhere. There is prejudice against them from Jewish Israelis because they are Arab. And prejudice from Arabs because they are Christians. The average Israeli doesn’t even come to Nazareth because of the predominately Arab population. We’ve heard multiple times that being an Arab Christian is hard. Very hard. And we see it.
On another note, traveling on our days off on the weekend has presented a fair amount of challenges, mainly in regards to public transportation. Because Israel is a Jewish country, all Jewish transportation shuts down for Shabbat. “Rest”. Shabbat lasts from just before sundown on Friday evening and ends on Saturday night. Jewish businesses, museums, places of interest, and Jewish run transportation… closed. Also, many Muslim businesses and transportations are closed on Friday afternoon for prayers and Sunday you’ll find many Christian businesses and places closed. This makes for planning your weekend and what to do difficult if this is not your norm. Which bus lines are running and which shops are open or closed all depend on what day of the week it is.
Also there’s food. So. Much. Food. This past Saturday, we were treated out to a “light lunch” by the director of the kids camp we worked at over the course of this past week. We learned that “light lunch” does not mean little food. It seemed to simply mean no meat. Traditionally, all of the salads, vegetables, bread, hummus, dips, falafel, and cheese are served family style in plenty at the beginning of the meal. After 30-45 minutes of stuffing yourself and feeling as though you can eat no more, they bring out all of the meat! Family style again. And this is the main entree. Followed by dessert. It’s impossible to leave an Israeli meal hungry.
We would continue to appreciate your prayers as we are befriending and working with Arab Christians, Muslims, Jewish people, and internationals who’ve moved here. Some of our team have been exploring different church services, venturing out to play basketball with locals, attending weekly chapel service with Arab Christians who work at the hospital, and for the past 2 weeks we spoke and led worship for the local servants who are here in this community either long-term or who call this place home.
Pray for the Arab Christians. There calling is great. But difficult. Challenging. But worth it. As often as you think of them, pray for them to be salt and light in their community. And for strength when they don’t feel like they “fit”.
